2009/03/03
2009/02/25
Selecting the right Arowana for you
Choosing an arowana is like choosing between one difficulty and another. This is for the following reasons:
1) Silver Arowana: Cheap(in the US at least), docile, fairly hardy, and easy to find. Sounds good right? Not really, for one they reach a size that rivals that of a captive Ariapima. But thats why we love arowanas right? So whats really wrong with them? The fact that the majority offered for sale are captive bread thus creating an abundance of defects and disorders, not to mention less attractive fish. The Verdict: If you can ensure the fish you're buying is wild caught , and can provide it with an adequate home then go ahead, this is the perfect Arowana for you.
2) Black Arowana: One of my personal favorites this fish is very simmilar to its silver cousin but without the common defects beceause they are all wild caught(as far as I know at least). The downside: These fish are quickly becoming very rare due to the lack of wild numbers to sustain a fishing for them, thus they command a high price and I myself couldnt justify keeping a fish that contributed to the destruction of a majestic species of this caliber. The Verdict:I dont think this is a good fish for any hobbiest to keep untill something is done about their wild status.
3) Jardini/Leichardti: Hailing from down-under these 2 fish are included together due to much debate as to if they are really a different fish at all. These fish are very attractive and quite the addition to a tank...... until they bring the demise af every fish that shares their tank. Keeping these fish in a community can be done but not without risk and sometimes proves impossible. The Verdict: If you can enjoy a tank with one resident then this fish is great for you. However if you enjoy a collection of impressive specimines and just one large, respected, and beautiful arowana then I suggest you look elsewhere.
4) African Arowana: Whats that giant minnow thing called? Its an African Arowana! Ok, so they aren't exactly beauty queens but they are an arowana and my personal favourite. They get about as big as Aussies (slightly smaller than the South American varieties). The only problem is that they are filter feeders and need to be fed, even in adulthood, at least twice a day, not all of us have that time and capital rescorce to accomadate these feedings. The Verdict: If you can afford and have the time to feed this fish twice a day and dont mind its drab coloring then I highly recomend this fish.
5) Asian Arowana: The Co De Gras of arowanas. Problem is its illegal in the US. Still its the most beautiful arowana to about anyone you ask. The Verdict: Too bad, maybe someday we could keep these fish without having nightmares about prison. To those of you outside of the U.S you better have on of these, they are in many ways the perfect arowana, not as big as the others, not picky, very personable, and just plain pretty, this is THE FISH man!
1) Silver Arowana: Cheap(in the US at least), docile, fairly hardy, and easy to find. Sounds good right? Not really, for one they reach a size that rivals that of a captive Ariapima. But thats why we love arowanas right? So whats really wrong with them? The fact that the majority offered for sale are captive bread thus creating an abundance of defects and disorders, not to mention less attractive fish. The Verdict: If you can ensure the fish you're buying is wild caught , and can provide it with an adequate home then go ahead, this is the perfect Arowana for you.
2) Black Arowana: One of my personal favorites this fish is very simmilar to its silver cousin but without the common defects beceause they are all wild caught(as far as I know at least). The downside: These fish are quickly becoming very rare due to the lack of wild numbers to sustain a fishing for them, thus they command a high price and I myself couldnt justify keeping a fish that contributed to the destruction of a majestic species of this caliber. The Verdict:I dont think this is a good fish for any hobbiest to keep untill something is done about their wild status.
3) Jardini/Leichardti: Hailing from down-under these 2 fish are included together due to much debate as to if they are really a different fish at all. These fish are very attractive and quite the addition to a tank...... until they bring the demise af every fish that shares their tank. Keeping these fish in a community can be done but not without risk and sometimes proves impossible. The Verdict: If you can enjoy a tank with one resident then this fish is great for you. However if you enjoy a collection of impressive specimines and just one large, respected, and beautiful arowana then I suggest you look elsewhere.
4) African Arowana: Whats that giant minnow thing called? Its an African Arowana! Ok, so they aren't exactly beauty queens but they are an arowana and my personal favourite. They get about as big as Aussies (slightly smaller than the South American varieties). The only problem is that they are filter feeders and need to be fed, even in adulthood, at least twice a day, not all of us have that time and capital rescorce to accomadate these feedings. The Verdict: If you can afford and have the time to feed this fish twice a day and dont mind its drab coloring then I highly recomend this fish.
5) Asian Arowana: The Co De Gras of arowanas. Problem is its illegal in the US. Still its the most beautiful arowana to about anyone you ask. The Verdict: Too bad, maybe someday we could keep these fish without having nightmares about prison. To those of you outside of the U.S you better have on of these, they are in many ways the perfect arowana, not as big as the others, not picky, very personable, and just plain pretty, this is THE FISH man!
Foods for Arowanas
Arowana is a carnivorous fish. In wild, its food consist mainly insects, fishes, prawns, worms and small amphibians. Live food is preferred by arowana though they can be trained to accept other food. Variety in food is a MUST to avoid nutritional deficiency. Small arowana (below 15cm> should be fed three times a day, medium arowana (15-35cm) twice a day and large arowana (above 35cm) once a day or alternate day. High fat food like feeder fish should only be used sparingly to avoid drop eye problem. If arowana is overfed for a long period of time, it may lost its appetite and starve itself for a periods of a few days. Overfeeding can also shorten the lifespan of arowana and affect its breeding capability. Live food is generally more nutritious then its counterpart. However, the risk of introducing disease into the tank is increased when live food is used. This is especially true when the live food is waterborne (live in water). Live food should be quarantine for at least a few days before feeding to the arowana. If you have doubt in certain food, the golden rule is "If in Doubt, Don't Use It". There are always other types of food available.
Insect
Crickets
Crickets are nutritious food for arowana. The risk of disease transmission is very low. Use the appropriate size crickets for different size arowanas. Hard shell of crickets should be removed when feed to baby arowana to avoid intestinal injury. Use only farm raise crickets as wild caught crickets may be contaminated with insecticide. You may feed the crickets’ vitamin A rice food like carrot before feeding it to arowana. This is a good way to transfer nutrient. Vitamin A enhances color of arowana (esp. red). Crickets may be frozen to avoid hassle, the percentage of nutrients retained when frozen is uncertain and require further study.
Cockroach
Similar to cricket. Do not feed dead cockroach to arowana as it might have been killed by insecticide. It is advisable to keep the cockroach for a couple of days before using it; any insecticide contaminated cockroach would be death by then.
Centipedes
Centipedes are very nutritious food for arowana. They are commonly used in Asia to enhance and intensify the color of arowana. Unfortunately the availability of this food is low. Frozen centipedes are more readily available then live one.
Fish
Live fish
Almost any bite size fish that is not poisonous can be arowana's food. Feeder gold, meadow, baby koi, baby catfish and small chidlid are commonly used. There is potential risk of disease transmission when this type of food is used. Quarantine is a MUST as it will screen out most (but not all) sick fishes. To transfer nutrient or medication to arowana, you may feed them to feeder fish right before using it. Some fishes, like goldfish are rich in fat and will precipitate drop eye problem. Use them sparingly. Goldfish is also believed to contained enzymes that will lead to nutritional deficiency in arowana, use it sparingly or avoid using it.
Fish meat
Fresh fish meat can be used. Trim all the fat away and cut them to bite size, wash them before use to avoid contamination of the water. Avoid frozen fish meat as denatured protein may lead to liver and internal organ sickness in long run.
Crustaceans
Live prawns/shrimps
Prawns/shrimps are rich in vitamin A which enhances arowana's color. They are very nutritious food. Avoid feeding baby arowana shrimps as their shells are hard to digest and may cause intestinal injury. Do not leave live prawns/shrimps in arowana tank as they encourage arowana to search downward constantly for them and hence may precipitate drop eye. Once again, there is also a potential risk of disease transmission.
Prawn meat Use only fresh prawns. Avoid frozen prawns unless you are very sure of its freshness as denatured protein may lead to liver and internal problems in long term. Removal of head is recommended as it is hard to digest and also the gill may have high concentration of germs/toxin. Prepare the prawn in bite sizes and wash it before use.
Krill
Krill is a nutritious food and it is readily available. Use appropriate size krill for different size arowana. Crush the shell then soak the krill to soften the shell prior to feeding baby arowana as hard krill may cause intestinal injury.
Worms
Bloodworms
Bloodworms are mainly used to feed baby arowana. They are nutritious food. Rinse away impurities before use. Do not feed it when frozen as it may cause intestinal upset. Avoid old age bloodworms as it is hard for baby arowana to digest. Live bloodworms are preferable but commercially available bloodworms are equally good when fresh. Freeze dry bloodworms may also used.
Tubifex worms
Tubifex worms are collected in highly contaminated drain and should be avoid unless properly treated. Commercially breed tubifex worms claim to be cleaner but its source are sometime questionable. Remember the golden rule: "If in Doubt, Don't Use it". This goes to frozen tubifex worms too. Freeze dry tubifex worms are cleaner but possibility of germs survived through very low temperature cannot be ruled out. High heavy metal content in the source is also a worry.
Mealworms
Mealworms are healthy and nutritious. Avoid feeding them to baby arowana as their hard shell is difficult to digest and may cause digestive problem or/and intestinal injury. Use worms that have just shed its shell. Darker color mean older shell. So choose pale looking mealworm. Drowning the worm proir to feeding is recommended if the fish accept dead worm. Head can be removed to minimize digestive problem.
Earthworms Earthworms are very healthy and nutritious. Risk of disease transmission is minimal. Squeezing the soil out before feeding is recommended. Or better still, feed the earthworm with nutritious food to clear the soil and transfer the nutrient. This is a highly recommended food by most aquarist.
Pellets/sticks food
There are many commercial pellets/sticks food available. Their nutritious value varies. Choose reputable brand. Pellets/sticks food specially formulated for arowana is recommended. However, this should not be the only food of arowana.
Amphibians
Frogs
Frogs are very nutritious food for arowana and are commonly used in Asia. You should be certain that the frogs are not poisonous before feeding them to arowana. Do not feed death frog to arowana. Frogs are believed to enhance arowana's color.
Lizard/Gecko
Lizards and geckos are also very nutritious food for arowana and are often loved by the fish. They are usually not commercially available or demand a very high price. Geckos are found in almost every house in tropical region. Catching them is hard work but often rewarded as they enhances arowana's color. Quarantine is also recommended as they might have eaten insecticide contamination insects, even though the probability is small.
==============================================
More post:
Foods you should not feed:
feeders- No nutrition, too many risks, too expensive, depletes B1 vitamins during digestion.
Mamalian Meat- Some people like to feed their aros beefheart and mice. This can be done, but that doesn't mean its good. Fish digestive systems are different that other animals, they do not digest mamalian meats well and repeated feedings of mamalian meats can cuase internal problems.
Live foods- There are too many risks with live foods, parasites, diseases, you name it.
Bugs*- Bugs are a special case, they can be fed, but I added it to this list to say that you should only feed farmed insects. Other insects can be contaminated with pesticides which can potentially kill your fish. Even if you find a couple cockroaches in your house, its usually not a smart idea to feed them as you do not know where they have been.
*Some people feed these things, so I am not telling you that you can't, but rather recommending that you don't, whether you listen or not is up to you*
Baby Aros
Freeze Dried Plankton- This is like minature krill for small aros. This contains alot of karotene which is good for colour and it also floats so its easier for aros to start eating. Remmeber to break off the pointy parts.
Freeze Dried Bloodworms- Freeze dried bloodworms is very nutritious. It is also usually accepted right off the bat so you can use it to get your new baby aros to start eating. This also floats, thus it is easier for baby aros to eat.
Baby Crickets- Aros can almost never resist crickets. They contain no nutrients by themselves so make sure you feed them carrots before you feed the crickets to your aro. Make sure they are BABY crickets as the regular crickets will have a harder exoskeleton and will be too big for the baby aros.
Hikari Aro Foodsticks (broken into smaller peices)- If your baby aro is eating well, it might be time to introduce one of its staple foods, foodsticks/pellets. As long as you break up the pellet/foodstick, it will be fine for your aro. This isn't just for hikari aro foodsticks, this applies with all pellets/food sticks (ie.Tropical Cichlid arowana sticks) but it is just an example as this is very well known.
Market Shrimp (deshelled, defrosted and cut small)- Market shrimp can also be fed to aros at this size. Make sure you remove the shell and defrost fully, as frozen foods can do harm to aros. Cut it really small, small enough for it to fit in an aro's mouth.
Flake- High quality flake can also be fed to baby aros, but should not be fed as they grow as this is not something that could fill up a bigger aro. (thanks to Bderick67 for the tip)
Medium Aros
*Everything in the "Baby Aros" section can be fed*
Hikari Aro Food sticks- At this size, your aro is able to eat full sticks. This should be a staple food. Do not only feed this though, it is best to have variety. Again, this applies to other pellets as well, not just Hikari. Hikari is just an example, this can be applied to all other pellets.
Market Shrimp- Market shrimp now can be fed in bigger peices, usually whole shrimps can be fed when they are deshelled with the tail removed. I personally feed with shell on as the shell contains most if not all the karotene, thus cutting it up into smaller peices is needed. Either way is fine. (WARNING: Feeding the tail has been known to puncture stomachs of aros, so only do it if you feel safe, I wont take responsibility for it.)
Crickets- There is really no need for this anymore and really doesn't need to be part of an aro's diet, but if your aro is sick or has lost its appetite, this is a great food to get them eating again. Again, feed crickets carrots before feeding them to aros.
Mealworms- Mealworms contain alot of karotenoids, like karotene that will boost colours on an aro. Feeding this can be very beneficial.
Fillets- Some people (me included) like to feed their arowana letfover fillets. This is perfectly fine as long as you know 100% that the fillets are fresh. This should not be a staple though, once in a while is good.
Freeze Dried Krill- This is the bigger version of freeze dried krill. All that orange you see is all beneficial karotene that will benefit your aro's colour. Remember to break off sharp points as it has been sceen that sharp peices can puncture stomachs and kill aros.
Mussels, Oysters, kockles- Mussels, oysters, and kockles are all fine tof feed. Shouldn't really be used as a staple though.
Anchovies- Anchovies are high in salt and is very beneficial to the aro's digestive system. This should not be fed too much as salt is very bad is there is too much, but a little bit will clean out their digestive system. (Thanks to Frank for the idea.)
Bloodworms- There is no longer a need for freeze dried bloodworms so you can feed thawed cubed bloodworms. Not recommended that you feed live bloodworms as they can transmit parasites. Also not really necessary in a staple, but thats up to you.
Nightcrawlers- Not the best things you can feed your aros, but it definitely doesn't do any harm. Nightcrawlers eat through the ground and collect minerals as they eat decaying matter. The minerals can benefit fish alot.
Big Aros
*Everything in the "Medium Aros" section can be fed*
Market Shrimp- Your aro should now be able to eat full shrimp with no problems. If you feel comfortable, you can just thaw them and feed them without deshelling or taking off the tail, but again, it has been known that aros die from sharp peices of shrimp tail.
Frogs- Frogs can be fed even at the average size but MIGHT be too big so I added it in the big size. Make sure the frogs you are feeding are not poisonous.
So to end it off, to give you a general idea of a feeding schedule it is only fair that I post my own personal one.
So here it is:
1. Hikari: aro food sticks, carnivore, massivore, cichlid gold- contains most if not all necessary nutrients for an aro
2. Market prawns- whole with shell for big aros, cut up with shell for smaller aros. Shell on for karotene= better colour.
3. Mealworms- for carotanoids again for better colour.
4. Crickets (very rare)- Only used as a treat if an aro is sick or won't eat. Always fed carrots before feeding to aro.
5. Anchovies- Becuase of their high salt content, it is good for a fish's digestive system. But also becuase its high in both salt and fat, I only feed this once every 2 weeks.
6. Krill- I usually don't have krill but whenever I feed like getting some, i will feed it. Also packed full of karotene which is good for colour.
7. Everything else- Ocaisonally, I will have left over fish fillets, mussels, and sometimes oyster.
Source: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218052
Insect
Crickets
Crickets are nutritious food for arowana. The risk of disease transmission is very low. Use the appropriate size crickets for different size arowanas. Hard shell of crickets should be removed when feed to baby arowana to avoid intestinal injury. Use only farm raise crickets as wild caught crickets may be contaminated with insecticide. You may feed the crickets’ vitamin A rice food like carrot before feeding it to arowana. This is a good way to transfer nutrient. Vitamin A enhances color of arowana (esp. red). Crickets may be frozen to avoid hassle, the percentage of nutrients retained when frozen is uncertain and require further study.
Cockroach
Similar to cricket. Do not feed dead cockroach to arowana as it might have been killed by insecticide. It is advisable to keep the cockroach for a couple of days before using it; any insecticide contaminated cockroach would be death by then.
Centipedes
Centipedes are very nutritious food for arowana. They are commonly used in Asia to enhance and intensify the color of arowana. Unfortunately the availability of this food is low. Frozen centipedes are more readily available then live one.
Fish
Live fish
Almost any bite size fish that is not poisonous can be arowana's food. Feeder gold, meadow, baby koi, baby catfish and small chidlid are commonly used. There is potential risk of disease transmission when this type of food is used. Quarantine is a MUST as it will screen out most (but not all) sick fishes. To transfer nutrient or medication to arowana, you may feed them to feeder fish right before using it. Some fishes, like goldfish are rich in fat and will precipitate drop eye problem. Use them sparingly. Goldfish is also believed to contained enzymes that will lead to nutritional deficiency in arowana, use it sparingly or avoid using it.
Fish meat
Fresh fish meat can be used. Trim all the fat away and cut them to bite size, wash them before use to avoid contamination of the water. Avoid frozen fish meat as denatured protein may lead to liver and internal organ sickness in long run.
Crustaceans
Live prawns/shrimps
Prawns/shrimps are rich in vitamin A which enhances arowana's color. They are very nutritious food. Avoid feeding baby arowana shrimps as their shells are hard to digest and may cause intestinal injury. Do not leave live prawns/shrimps in arowana tank as they encourage arowana to search downward constantly for them and hence may precipitate drop eye. Once again, there is also a potential risk of disease transmission.
Prawn meat Use only fresh prawns. Avoid frozen prawns unless you are very sure of its freshness as denatured protein may lead to liver and internal problems in long term. Removal of head is recommended as it is hard to digest and also the gill may have high concentration of germs/toxin. Prepare the prawn in bite sizes and wash it before use.
Krill
Krill is a nutritious food and it is readily available. Use appropriate size krill for different size arowana. Crush the shell then soak the krill to soften the shell prior to feeding baby arowana as hard krill may cause intestinal injury.
Worms
Bloodworms
Bloodworms are mainly used to feed baby arowana. They are nutritious food. Rinse away impurities before use. Do not feed it when frozen as it may cause intestinal upset. Avoid old age bloodworms as it is hard for baby arowana to digest. Live bloodworms are preferable but commercially available bloodworms are equally good when fresh. Freeze dry bloodworms may also used.
Tubifex worms
Tubifex worms are collected in highly contaminated drain and should be avoid unless properly treated. Commercially breed tubifex worms claim to be cleaner but its source are sometime questionable. Remember the golden rule: "If in Doubt, Don't Use it". This goes to frozen tubifex worms too. Freeze dry tubifex worms are cleaner but possibility of germs survived through very low temperature cannot be ruled out. High heavy metal content in the source is also a worry.
Mealworms
Mealworms are healthy and nutritious. Avoid feeding them to baby arowana as their hard shell is difficult to digest and may cause digestive problem or/and intestinal injury. Use worms that have just shed its shell. Darker color mean older shell. So choose pale looking mealworm. Drowning the worm proir to feeding is recommended if the fish accept dead worm. Head can be removed to minimize digestive problem.
Earthworms Earthworms are very healthy and nutritious. Risk of disease transmission is minimal. Squeezing the soil out before feeding is recommended. Or better still, feed the earthworm with nutritious food to clear the soil and transfer the nutrient. This is a highly recommended food by most aquarist.
Pellets/sticks food
There are many commercial pellets/sticks food available. Their nutritious value varies. Choose reputable brand. Pellets/sticks food specially formulated for arowana is recommended. However, this should not be the only food of arowana.
Amphibians
Frogs
Frogs are very nutritious food for arowana and are commonly used in Asia. You should be certain that the frogs are not poisonous before feeding them to arowana. Do not feed death frog to arowana. Frogs are believed to enhance arowana's color.
Lizard/Gecko
Lizards and geckos are also very nutritious food for arowana and are often loved by the fish. They are usually not commercially available or demand a very high price. Geckos are found in almost every house in tropical region. Catching them is hard work but often rewarded as they enhances arowana's color. Quarantine is also recommended as they might have eaten insecticide contamination insects, even though the probability is small.
==============================================
More post:
Foods you should not feed:
feeders- No nutrition, too many risks, too expensive, depletes B1 vitamins during digestion.
Mamalian Meat- Some people like to feed their aros beefheart and mice. This can be done, but that doesn't mean its good. Fish digestive systems are different that other animals, they do not digest mamalian meats well and repeated feedings of mamalian meats can cuase internal problems.
Live foods- There are too many risks with live foods, parasites, diseases, you name it.
Bugs*- Bugs are a special case, they can be fed, but I added it to this list to say that you should only feed farmed insects. Other insects can be contaminated with pesticides which can potentially kill your fish. Even if you find a couple cockroaches in your house, its usually not a smart idea to feed them as you do not know where they have been.
*Some people feed these things, so I am not telling you that you can't, but rather recommending that you don't, whether you listen or not is up to you*
Baby Aros
Freeze Dried Plankton- This is like minature krill for small aros. This contains alot of karotene which is good for colour and it also floats so its easier for aros to start eating. Remmeber to break off the pointy parts.
Freeze Dried Bloodworms- Freeze dried bloodworms is very nutritious. It is also usually accepted right off the bat so you can use it to get your new baby aros to start eating. This also floats, thus it is easier for baby aros to eat.
Baby Crickets- Aros can almost never resist crickets. They contain no nutrients by themselves so make sure you feed them carrots before you feed the crickets to your aro. Make sure they are BABY crickets as the regular crickets will have a harder exoskeleton and will be too big for the baby aros.
Hikari Aro Foodsticks (broken into smaller peices)- If your baby aro is eating well, it might be time to introduce one of its staple foods, foodsticks/pellets. As long as you break up the pellet/foodstick, it will be fine for your aro. This isn't just for hikari aro foodsticks, this applies with all pellets/food sticks (ie.Tropical Cichlid arowana sticks) but it is just an example as this is very well known.
Market Shrimp (deshelled, defrosted and cut small)- Market shrimp can also be fed to aros at this size. Make sure you remove the shell and defrost fully, as frozen foods can do harm to aros. Cut it really small, small enough for it to fit in an aro's mouth.
Flake- High quality flake can also be fed to baby aros, but should not be fed as they grow as this is not something that could fill up a bigger aro. (thanks to Bderick67 for the tip)
Medium Aros
*Everything in the "Baby Aros" section can be fed*
Hikari Aro Food sticks- At this size, your aro is able to eat full sticks. This should be a staple food. Do not only feed this though, it is best to have variety. Again, this applies to other pellets as well, not just Hikari. Hikari is just an example, this can be applied to all other pellets.
Market Shrimp- Market shrimp now can be fed in bigger peices, usually whole shrimps can be fed when they are deshelled with the tail removed. I personally feed with shell on as the shell contains most if not all the karotene, thus cutting it up into smaller peices is needed. Either way is fine. (WARNING: Feeding the tail has been known to puncture stomachs of aros, so only do it if you feel safe, I wont take responsibility for it.)
Crickets- There is really no need for this anymore and really doesn't need to be part of an aro's diet, but if your aro is sick or has lost its appetite, this is a great food to get them eating again. Again, feed crickets carrots before feeding them to aros.
Mealworms- Mealworms contain alot of karotenoids, like karotene that will boost colours on an aro. Feeding this can be very beneficial.
Fillets- Some people (me included) like to feed their arowana letfover fillets. This is perfectly fine as long as you know 100% that the fillets are fresh. This should not be a staple though, once in a while is good.
Freeze Dried Krill- This is the bigger version of freeze dried krill. All that orange you see is all beneficial karotene that will benefit your aro's colour. Remember to break off sharp points as it has been sceen that sharp peices can puncture stomachs and kill aros.
Mussels, Oysters, kockles- Mussels, oysters, and kockles are all fine tof feed. Shouldn't really be used as a staple though.
Anchovies- Anchovies are high in salt and is very beneficial to the aro's digestive system. This should not be fed too much as salt is very bad is there is too much, but a little bit will clean out their digestive system. (Thanks to Frank for the idea.)
Bloodworms- There is no longer a need for freeze dried bloodworms so you can feed thawed cubed bloodworms. Not recommended that you feed live bloodworms as they can transmit parasites. Also not really necessary in a staple, but thats up to you.
Nightcrawlers- Not the best things you can feed your aros, but it definitely doesn't do any harm. Nightcrawlers eat through the ground and collect minerals as they eat decaying matter. The minerals can benefit fish alot.
Big Aros
*Everything in the "Medium Aros" section can be fed*
Market Shrimp- Your aro should now be able to eat full shrimp with no problems. If you feel comfortable, you can just thaw them and feed them without deshelling or taking off the tail, but again, it has been known that aros die from sharp peices of shrimp tail.
Frogs- Frogs can be fed even at the average size but MIGHT be too big so I added it in the big size. Make sure the frogs you are feeding are not poisonous.
So to end it off, to give you a general idea of a feeding schedule it is only fair that I post my own personal one.
So here it is:
1. Hikari: aro food sticks, carnivore, massivore, cichlid gold- contains most if not all necessary nutrients for an aro
2. Market prawns- whole with shell for big aros, cut up with shell for smaller aros. Shell on for karotene= better colour.
3. Mealworms- for carotanoids again for better colour.
4. Crickets (very rare)- Only used as a treat if an aro is sick or won't eat. Always fed carrots before feeding to aro.
5. Anchovies- Becuase of their high salt content, it is good for a fish's digestive system. But also becuase its high in both salt and fat, I only feed this once every 2 weeks.
6. Krill- I usually don't have krill but whenever I feed like getting some, i will feed it. Also packed full of karotene which is good for colour.
7. Everything else- Ocaisonally, I will have left over fish fillets, mussels, and sometimes oyster.
Source: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=218052
Tankmates with Jardini
DO NOT DERAIL
Jardini have the reputation of being the bad guys of the arowana world. They can be very nasty and a lot of us have discovered the hard way that these guys should either be kept alone or tankmates should be seleceted with care. I would advise you not to introduce a jardini into a tank with a fish you dearly love. You may wake up in the morning and find it dead...
If you insist on keeping a jardini with tankmates it comes down to a case of trial and error. It may or may not work. Its that simple...but at the same time a pain. Obviously you will not want to risk any unecessary deaths. Don't lose hope though, there are cases where jardini have succesfully been kept in community tanks. The only thing you might lose is a lot of money and a lot of fish on the way to finding a combination that finally works. But im sure the feeling of accomplishment will be great
Jardini also have a reputation to suddenly become aggressive after they hit the 8 inch mark. This has been found out by a lot of hobbyists so do not be fooled into thinking your Jardini is one of the tankmate tolerant ones. You may find out that suddenly your Jardini has gone on a killing spree. It has happened before…
A few tankmates I would suggest are the giant gourami, peacock bass and clown knives. A few people I know have had this combination work for them. Basically just try to keep tankmates of a bigger size than the Jardini.
Another commonly asked question is if leichardti will tolerate tankmates. This is hard to answer. Once again a case of trial and error. I have had leichardti beat up 12 inch + fish. In my experience they can be just as nasty. I have seen them in large community tanks though so who knows.
Source: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23838
Jardini have the reputation of being the bad guys of the arowana world. They can be very nasty and a lot of us have discovered the hard way that these guys should either be kept alone or tankmates should be seleceted with care. I would advise you not to introduce a jardini into a tank with a fish you dearly love. You may wake up in the morning and find it dead...
If you insist on keeping a jardini with tankmates it comes down to a case of trial and error. It may or may not work. Its that simple...but at the same time a pain. Obviously you will not want to risk any unecessary deaths. Don't lose hope though, there are cases where jardini have succesfully been kept in community tanks. The only thing you might lose is a lot of money and a lot of fish on the way to finding a combination that finally works. But im sure the feeling of accomplishment will be great
Jardini also have a reputation to suddenly become aggressive after they hit the 8 inch mark. This has been found out by a lot of hobbyists so do not be fooled into thinking your Jardini is one of the tankmate tolerant ones. You may find out that suddenly your Jardini has gone on a killing spree. It has happened before…
A few tankmates I would suggest are the giant gourami, peacock bass and clown knives. A few people I know have had this combination work for them. Basically just try to keep tankmates of a bigger size than the Jardini.
Another commonly asked question is if leichardti will tolerate tankmates. This is hard to answer. Once again a case of trial and error. I have had leichardti beat up 12 inch + fish. In my experience they can be just as nasty. I have seen them in large community tanks though so who knows.
Source: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23838
Maintenance and basic care of arowana tank
Maintenance and basic care
Maintaining your arowana's tank is very essential for it to grow fast
and for it to be healthy and free from diseases. Regular water change
should be done at least twice a week.
Changing the water of your arowana's tank
Be careful not to frighten the arowana. It might be able to jump out.
It is best if you do not remove the arowana from the tank. This will
lessen stress and would prevent injury which might be fatal.
Remember to use only aged tap water (at least 2-3 days) so that you
can be sure that your water is safe and free from chlorine.
You can also use anti-chlorine if you want to.
Drain 2/3 of the arowana's tank and change it with new water.
It is also good if you would place a dosage of blackwater extract
into the aquarium after the job has been done to calm the fish down.
When moving becomes necessary, make use of mil tranquilizers. This
will put your arowana in temporary sleep. It would lessen the injuries
If you do not have any tranquilizers or do not want to make use of one,
Then make use of plastic bags. This will also do the trick.
Be careful when transferring arowanas. They might get
damages in their fins and scales. The crossback arowana's fins and tail is very delicate.
FILTRATION
Proper filtration is a must in aquariums. If not properly filtered, the arowana's waste will build up thus, causing poisonous ammonia. Below are the list of filtration systems commonly used.
a. Under gravel filter - I do not recommend the use of under gravel filters in arowanas because first of all, waste products and food particles may get stuck under the gravel thus, promoting ammonia which can lead to the death of the fish if not checked regularly on at least once a week. I don't recommend this also because I discourage putting gravel into an arowana's aquarium. There are many reasons behind this. First, it's very hard to maintain. When gravel is present, frequent cleaning is a must to prevent waste build up. Second, frequent cleaning means disturbing the tank thus, causing stress in arowanas. Third, if proper care is not taken when cleaning the gravel, the arowana might be alarmed and jumps out of the tank. The most common reason for the death of an arowana is jumping out of the tank. (So cover your tanks properly.)
b. Overflow filter / Overhead filter - Basically, this filter system is very good. I recommend the use of this filter. But, you should frequently clean the filter. This type of filtration is effective and easy to maintain. The filter is also easy to setup. But, you should be careful because it may overflow thus, causing a mess. So please be careful.
c. Internal Filter - Basically, this type of filter system is effective in small aquarium but is quite hard to maintain since, it is inside the aquarium. This type of filter is good in small aquariums and is suitable for young arowanas.
d. External Filter - This is possibly the best filter for arowanas. It costs quite a lot if the filter is really good. This is similar to the overflow filter but only it doesn't make use of gravity to bring the water back to the tank. Therefore, there will be less chances of the filter overflowing... causing a mess.The water is drawn out of the aquarium and is brought to a tower outside the tank to be filtered then transferred back to the tank via powerheads. The water goes through lots of filtration media which is up to the person to place. Filter medias such as ammonia remover and peat granule is available. The best products for this is Fluval or Eheim.
TANK SIZE
Basically, the golden rule is that the minimum size for an arowana's tank should be of the following: The length of the aquarium should be twice the length of your arowana. The width should at least be the same size of your arowana's length. Ofcourse the bigger the tank the better. Arowanas should be housed in a 75 gallon tank. It depends on the size of your fish. South American species will require a tank size of at least 180 gallons for it to grow healthy and for it to acquire it's maximum size.
AIR
Air is vital for your arowana's growth. Aeration should be just enough and not too much nor too little. Too little air will cause your arowana to grasp for air. You will notice this when your arowana goes to the top of your aquarium. Little air will also increase the chances of gill curling. Too much air, on the other hand, will cause a swim bladder problem. That is, your arowana might have the tendancy to swim sideways. Basically, air bubbles produced from filter is enough. You could add one air stone or one powerhead and that should be enough. Oxygen is vital for your arowana to grow fast.
LIGHTING
lighting is a must for the arowana to develop its full potentials. The red arowana requires at least 8 hours of lighting per day. It is said that sunlight is better for red arowanas. Crossback goldens and red tailed goldens are said to require only minimum lighting. Too much lighting for crossbacks and red-tailed goldens is said to have a negative effect. The tendancy of these fishes is to develop a dark back. Hence, the crossback golden will not have colors crossing over their backs. As for the red-tailed golden, in order for it to become a good quality high back golden, light should be lessened.
TEMPERATURE
The temperature of your tank should be well maintained. Sudden changes in the temperature will stress out your arowana, if not, kill them. Thus a heater is required if the fish is placed outside the house. If you live in countries such as the Philippines. Heaters are unnecessary. Arowanas thrive in temperatures ranging from 28 degrees C to 32 degrees C. Healthy arowanas may tolerate temperatures reaching 23 degrees C to 34 degrees C.
Sourse: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17337
Maintaining your arowana's tank is very essential for it to grow fast
and for it to be healthy and free from diseases. Regular water change
should be done at least twice a week.
Changing the water of your arowana's tank
Be careful not to frighten the arowana. It might be able to jump out.
It is best if you do not remove the arowana from the tank. This will
lessen stress and would prevent injury which might be fatal.
Remember to use only aged tap water (at least 2-3 days) so that you
can be sure that your water is safe and free from chlorine.
You can also use anti-chlorine if you want to.
Drain 2/3 of the arowana's tank and change it with new water.
It is also good if you would place a dosage of blackwater extract
into the aquarium after the job has been done to calm the fish down.
When moving becomes necessary, make use of mil tranquilizers. This
will put your arowana in temporary sleep. It would lessen the injuries
If you do not have any tranquilizers or do not want to make use of one,
Then make use of plastic bags. This will also do the trick.
Be careful when transferring arowanas. They might get
damages in their fins and scales. The crossback arowana's fins and tail is very delicate.
FILTRATION
Proper filtration is a must in aquariums. If not properly filtered, the arowana's waste will build up thus, causing poisonous ammonia. Below are the list of filtration systems commonly used.
a. Under gravel filter - I do not recommend the use of under gravel filters in arowanas because first of all, waste products and food particles may get stuck under the gravel thus, promoting ammonia which can lead to the death of the fish if not checked regularly on at least once a week. I don't recommend this also because I discourage putting gravel into an arowana's aquarium. There are many reasons behind this. First, it's very hard to maintain. When gravel is present, frequent cleaning is a must to prevent waste build up. Second, frequent cleaning means disturbing the tank thus, causing stress in arowanas. Third, if proper care is not taken when cleaning the gravel, the arowana might be alarmed and jumps out of the tank. The most common reason for the death of an arowana is jumping out of the tank. (So cover your tanks properly.)
b. Overflow filter / Overhead filter - Basically, this filter system is very good. I recommend the use of this filter. But, you should frequently clean the filter. This type of filtration is effective and easy to maintain. The filter is also easy to setup. But, you should be careful because it may overflow thus, causing a mess. So please be careful.
c. Internal Filter - Basically, this type of filter system is effective in small aquarium but is quite hard to maintain since, it is inside the aquarium. This type of filter is good in small aquariums and is suitable for young arowanas.
d. External Filter - This is possibly the best filter for arowanas. It costs quite a lot if the filter is really good. This is similar to the overflow filter but only it doesn't make use of gravity to bring the water back to the tank. Therefore, there will be less chances of the filter overflowing... causing a mess.The water is drawn out of the aquarium and is brought to a tower outside the tank to be filtered then transferred back to the tank via powerheads. The water goes through lots of filtration media which is up to the person to place. Filter medias such as ammonia remover and peat granule is available. The best products for this is Fluval or Eheim.
TANK SIZE
Basically, the golden rule is that the minimum size for an arowana's tank should be of the following: The length of the aquarium should be twice the length of your arowana. The width should at least be the same size of your arowana's length. Ofcourse the bigger the tank the better. Arowanas should be housed in a 75 gallon tank. It depends on the size of your fish. South American species will require a tank size of at least 180 gallons for it to grow healthy and for it to acquire it's maximum size.
AIR
Air is vital for your arowana's growth. Aeration should be just enough and not too much nor too little. Too little air will cause your arowana to grasp for air. You will notice this when your arowana goes to the top of your aquarium. Little air will also increase the chances of gill curling. Too much air, on the other hand, will cause a swim bladder problem. That is, your arowana might have the tendancy to swim sideways. Basically, air bubbles produced from filter is enough. You could add one air stone or one powerhead and that should be enough. Oxygen is vital for your arowana to grow fast.
LIGHTING
lighting is a must for the arowana to develop its full potentials. The red arowana requires at least 8 hours of lighting per day. It is said that sunlight is better for red arowanas. Crossback goldens and red tailed goldens are said to require only minimum lighting. Too much lighting for crossbacks and red-tailed goldens is said to have a negative effect. The tendancy of these fishes is to develop a dark back. Hence, the crossback golden will not have colors crossing over their backs. As for the red-tailed golden, in order for it to become a good quality high back golden, light should be lessened.
TEMPERATURE
The temperature of your tank should be well maintained. Sudden changes in the temperature will stress out your arowana, if not, kill them. Thus a heater is required if the fish is placed outside the house. If you live in countries such as the Philippines. Heaters are unnecessary. Arowanas thrive in temperatures ranging from 28 degrees C to 32 degrees C. Healthy arowanas may tolerate temperatures reaching 23 degrees C to 34 degrees C.
Sourse: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17337
The fate of the asian arowana in the hands of the aquarium industry
Introduction:
The past 30 years have seen the rise of the popularity of the Asian Arowana in the fishkeeping hobby. This paper aims to describe the development of its trade and how it came to be listed by CITES (Convention on International Trade on Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora) as a highest class protected fish. To this end, we shall also see the present state and developments in the trade of this fish.
I will mainly focus on the implications that the pet industry has on these fish, and how they have contributed to the development of its trade. I will also focus on the import, export, and the sale of these fishes as governed by the rules and regulations of the CITES convention.
Since this is a fairly uncovered area that I am venturing into, I had to work with resources outside of the Library. Mostly my research materials come from correspondents I have met via the internet. They include knowledgeable breeders who have been in the business for years. I have also received tons of documents from CITES thanks to the generosity of Mr. Obdulio Menghi.
It is the hope of this paper to make people more aware of what’s going on behind the scenes in the aquarium industry. Hopefully, this paper will also show people what we can do as consumers and hobbyists to make things better in the trade of Asian Arowanas and to all animals in general.
I. Background of the Arowana Trade
A. Dragonfishes become popular in the aquarium
The Asian Arowana (Sclepropages Formosus) is popularly known as the Dragonfish. Its charm lies in the fact that this fish is a creature surrounded by mystery. First of all, it cannot be bred in an aquarium. Coupled with that, an Arowana grows into a massive specimen that could reach up to lengths of three feet or more. This is the reason why it presents such a challenge to hobbyists, and this is also the reason why it adds to the distinction of the Arowana. The fact that not just anybody can take care of it is just too exciting to resist.
It is not merely enough to talk about the beauty of the Arowana in terms of its size alone. One has to mention the brilliant colors by which these fishes are known for. Depending on the variety, an Arowana can have colors ranging from red, red golden, gold, and green. Each color has its own subdivision too. For example the red has chili red, pineapple red and so on but for purposes of convenience we will just restrict ourselves to these basic categories.
Dragonfish are also the object of Chinese superstition. It is believed that they are the reincarnation of the dragon, the mythical figure of Chinese folklore from which it is believed all Chinese are descended from. Geomancers say that they bring good luck, and that they protect the owners from harm and misfortune. It is said that an Arowana in the office (especially a gold one, as it resembles gold, meaning therefore that it is a sign of money) will bring a lot of good fortune and prosperity. A red Arowana on the other hand, will ward off evil spirits when placed at home. These reasons along with the Arowanas great beauty, have made them a favorite in the aquarium.
B. The demand on the Asian Arowana increases
The demand for the Arowana increased dramatically. This can ve seen from the number of breeding farms that increased steadily from 1978 all the way to 1992. Both pet shops and suppliers alike couldn’t keep up with the rapid demand. An Asian Arowana was bought the moment it arrived.
That period saw an unprecedented soar in the price of the Arowana. The price of the Arowana was just as big as its fame. People were willing to pay tens of thousands of pesos for an Arowana. The price hasn’t changed much until today. A red costs up to 20,000 pesos here in the Philippines, and 4000 U.S. dollars in the United States. A gold costs up to 8500 pesos, and a green costs up to 3500 pesos. The fish collectors, who knew that they had the power to dictate the price of their catch raised the prices significantly to make a greater profit. The suppliers did the same, causing pet shop owners to raise their prices too.
This chain reaction was the fault of both the hobbyists and the suppliers. Both sides were to blame. People didn’t care if they had to pay much as long as they can get a fish. What this did for the Arowana was disastrous. Fishes began to deplete in the wild as they were caught faster than they could reproduce. Soon they were well on their way to becoming an endangered specie. And this is exactly what happened.
II. CITES steps in
A. Background on CITES
One cannot talk about the Arowana without talking about CITES. In the words of Hiroshi Maeda "The Asian Arowana cannot be discussed without mentioning the CITES convention."
CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora, is a convention comprised by different nations that seeks to regulate the trade of endangered species of plants and animals.
Cites had its beginnings at the 8th International Union for the Conservation of Nature. It was proposed that a treaty be drawn up to regulate the trade in endangered species of animals. Several proposals were drafted but they never made it to the meeting board. However, it resurfaced again in 1972. It was suggested at the UN Human Environment Council meeting that "a meeting of appropriate governments or government agencies with full powers be called at the earliest opportunity in order to draw up and adopt a treaty regulating the import, export, and transportation of wild flora and fauna."
The said convention was held in Washington the following year. The result was a pact that 72 countries signed which went into effect on July 1, 1975.
B. CITES lists Scleropages Formosus under its Appendix I status.
The aim of CITES is to "prevent excessive international trade in specific endangered species; it recognizes the positiveness of moderate consumption and seeks to promote balanced use."
CITES has three levels of classification when it comes to wild flora and fauna. Appendix I is for plants and animals that are in danger of becoming extinct. Appendix II is for plants and animals that are considered to be endangered. Appendix III plants and animals are abundant and are not endangered. Asian Arowanas are listed by CITES under its Appendix I status as a highest class protected fish due to its rapid decline in the wild. Under this scheme, the fish is to be able to enjoy all the privileges that comes with being a protected specie. Violators in the United States could for example, face up to 20,000 dollars in fine and up to five years imprisonment for violating this law.
Because of CITES, the Asian Arowana has now been given a new lease on life. Because of it’s special status as an Appendix I animal, the trade in Asian Arowanas became illegal.
C. CITES agrees to importation of farm bred specimens at a restricted level.
In 1989, at the Rosanne Seventh Review Congress, it was agreed to import farm bred fishes at a restricted level from Indonesia. Although Asian Arowanas were originally listed under Appendix I, it was later recognized that breeding the Arowana can be an economic alternative to domestic livestock production. At the same time, it will provide an incentive for rural populations in those places to develop an interest in its conservation. In line with this, CITES also believes that it should encourage the establishment of captive breeding operations for animals included in Appendix I. Therefore, Arowanas were once again allowed to be exported from its country of origin as long as the exported fishes are of specimens bred in captivity. The number of fishes exported from Indonesia are as follows: 1250 in 1990, 1500 in 1991, and 2500 in 1992. This allowance continues to increase and today there are over 16 CITES registered farms breeding Scleropages Formosus for commercial purposes.
III. The Arowana Today
A. A look into a fish farm
These days, the trading of Arowanas are once again legal, provided they are from CITES registered fish farms. These fish farms are scattered across Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore where these fishes find their native habitat. To be able to apply as a CITES certified fish farm is a long and tedious process. Captive-Breeding operations have to be first approved by the Management Authority of each Party, in consultation with the Scientific Authority of that Party. Prior to the establishment of captive-breeding operations for exotic species, a study of ecological risks should be completed, in order to prevent any negative effects on the ecosystem and the native species. When all this is done the breeder has to acquire a breeding stock, and he has to build the facilities to house specimens and successfully breeding the species.
Specimens for the aquarium are no longer acquired in the wild. These fish farms specializes in the production of F2 offsprings, meaning second generation offsprings that can be sold to the market. These fishes are tagged with coded microchips called Passive Integrated Transponders (PIT) for identification purposes. These microchips help identify these fishes as a farm bred animal, and if the need ever arises to check its identification, the microchip can be scanned to identify the fish. Aside from the microchip, when one buys a farm bred fish from any of these fish farms, the buyer will receive a certificate of authenticity plus a birth certificate.
Some of the more well known fish farms are located in Singapore such as Panda Aquatics and Dragonfish Industry. They specialize in breeding high quality Arowanas.
B. Illegal activities
Although we have come a long way to make short term destruction into long term growth for both man and beast, there are still a lot of illegal activities going on behind the scenes. Although CITES has taken so much pain to ensure that its captive breeding program will be for the best, people have found ways around it to maximize profit at the expense of nature. There are some breeders who dig up a big earth pond and throws in whatever fishes they have in their breeding stock. The result is that a lot of hybrids are produced since these strains interbreed easily.
Hybrids are usually more prone to sickness and birth defects. These birth defects can cause disastrous consequences down the line as future generations of Arowanas will suffer due to bad genes and mutations. These irresponsible breeders don’t care about quality, they care for quantity. Breeders also just look for a few features and market these as either red gold or green Arowanas when in fact they are hybrids. What happens is that consumers are being cheated of their money.
The biggest problem now is that some breeders would catch fishes from the wild, and then tag them as CITES registered fishes. There is also the problem with hormone treatment. When breeders catch their fish from the pond, and realize that they are not that red, they would treat them with hormones so that they could sell it at a higher price. Recently, there have been complaints that the quality of fishes has gone down. The truth is, both sides are to blame. The dealers want cheaper fishes, and so they get what they paid for. However it is the consumer who suffers because he doesn’t know if the fish he’s buying is hormone treated or not.
Alex Chang of Panda Aquatics, one of the leading fish farms based on Singapore says that "we here are trying very hard to uphold the image of the industry in Singapore to have a sustainable market overseas but dealers are killing themselves day by day..."
C. The Arowana in the home of the hobbyist
The final destination of the Arowana is of course at the home of the hobbyist. Here the fishes spend the rest of their lives under the care of their new owners. Depending on the quality of care given, an Arowana may live up to a ripe old age of 25 years old.
The more adventurous aquarist will try to breed these fishes for himself and this is not discouraged. There are several benefits of breeding the Arowana by the aquarist.
Firstly, it adds to the knowledge of existing breeding methods. Secondly, it helps ensure the survival of the Arowana. Thirdly, when more people can breed these fishes by themselves, it would help counter the high prices in the market. 4) Arowanas would become more available.
If there are advantages though, there definitely are disadvantages too. There is always the worry that fishes bred by the hobbyist would be of poor quality and it would contribute to the decline in the gene pool.
Conclusion:
There is much debate going on whether the trade in exotic animals , and not just the Asian Arowana, has done more harm or good. It is not the intention of this paper to prove or show favor for any particular side. This paper does not aim to prove either point, but what this paper does intend to do is to bring out in the open something that is not generally known.
As with all research papers, there are limitations to my study. The first , and which I feel is the most significant, is that a lot has yet to be uncovered on the illegal trading going on. This is one area that if possible, should be given more research into because it is a very significant part of the whole trade. Also, few have yet to witness the actual steps taken in the exportation of these fishes-from catching, bagging, shipping, quarantine, until it finally reaches its destination in the different pet shops where it is sold. All these are areas still worth exploring and should be given proper research into.
A Research Paper Submitted to the Faculty of Ateneo de Manila University by Cheng Lee.
Source: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17373
The past 30 years have seen the rise of the popularity of the Asian Arowana in the fishkeeping hobby. This paper aims to describe the development of its trade and how it came to be listed by CITES (Convention on International Trade on Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora) as a highest class protected fish. To this end, we shall also see the present state and developments in the trade of this fish.
I will mainly focus on the implications that the pet industry has on these fish, and how they have contributed to the development of its trade. I will also focus on the import, export, and the sale of these fishes as governed by the rules and regulations of the CITES convention.
Since this is a fairly uncovered area that I am venturing into, I had to work with resources outside of the Library. Mostly my research materials come from correspondents I have met via the internet. They include knowledgeable breeders who have been in the business for years. I have also received tons of documents from CITES thanks to the generosity of Mr. Obdulio Menghi.
It is the hope of this paper to make people more aware of what’s going on behind the scenes in the aquarium industry. Hopefully, this paper will also show people what we can do as consumers and hobbyists to make things better in the trade of Asian Arowanas and to all animals in general.
I. Background of the Arowana Trade
A. Dragonfishes become popular in the aquarium
The Asian Arowana (Sclepropages Formosus) is popularly known as the Dragonfish. Its charm lies in the fact that this fish is a creature surrounded by mystery. First of all, it cannot be bred in an aquarium. Coupled with that, an Arowana grows into a massive specimen that could reach up to lengths of three feet or more. This is the reason why it presents such a challenge to hobbyists, and this is also the reason why it adds to the distinction of the Arowana. The fact that not just anybody can take care of it is just too exciting to resist.
It is not merely enough to talk about the beauty of the Arowana in terms of its size alone. One has to mention the brilliant colors by which these fishes are known for. Depending on the variety, an Arowana can have colors ranging from red, red golden, gold, and green. Each color has its own subdivision too. For example the red has chili red, pineapple red and so on but for purposes of convenience we will just restrict ourselves to these basic categories.
Dragonfish are also the object of Chinese superstition. It is believed that they are the reincarnation of the dragon, the mythical figure of Chinese folklore from which it is believed all Chinese are descended from. Geomancers say that they bring good luck, and that they protect the owners from harm and misfortune. It is said that an Arowana in the office (especially a gold one, as it resembles gold, meaning therefore that it is a sign of money) will bring a lot of good fortune and prosperity. A red Arowana on the other hand, will ward off evil spirits when placed at home. These reasons along with the Arowanas great beauty, have made them a favorite in the aquarium.
B. The demand on the Asian Arowana increases
The demand for the Arowana increased dramatically. This can ve seen from the number of breeding farms that increased steadily from 1978 all the way to 1992. Both pet shops and suppliers alike couldn’t keep up with the rapid demand. An Asian Arowana was bought the moment it arrived.
That period saw an unprecedented soar in the price of the Arowana. The price of the Arowana was just as big as its fame. People were willing to pay tens of thousands of pesos for an Arowana. The price hasn’t changed much until today. A red costs up to 20,000 pesos here in the Philippines, and 4000 U.S. dollars in the United States. A gold costs up to 8500 pesos, and a green costs up to 3500 pesos. The fish collectors, who knew that they had the power to dictate the price of their catch raised the prices significantly to make a greater profit. The suppliers did the same, causing pet shop owners to raise their prices too.
This chain reaction was the fault of both the hobbyists and the suppliers. Both sides were to blame. People didn’t care if they had to pay much as long as they can get a fish. What this did for the Arowana was disastrous. Fishes began to deplete in the wild as they were caught faster than they could reproduce. Soon they were well on their way to becoming an endangered specie. And this is exactly what happened.
II. CITES steps in
A. Background on CITES
One cannot talk about the Arowana without talking about CITES. In the words of Hiroshi Maeda "The Asian Arowana cannot be discussed without mentioning the CITES convention."
CITES, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of wild fauna and flora, is a convention comprised by different nations that seeks to regulate the trade of endangered species of plants and animals.
Cites had its beginnings at the 8th International Union for the Conservation of Nature. It was proposed that a treaty be drawn up to regulate the trade in endangered species of animals. Several proposals were drafted but they never made it to the meeting board. However, it resurfaced again in 1972. It was suggested at the UN Human Environment Council meeting that "a meeting of appropriate governments or government agencies with full powers be called at the earliest opportunity in order to draw up and adopt a treaty regulating the import, export, and transportation of wild flora and fauna."
The said convention was held in Washington the following year. The result was a pact that 72 countries signed which went into effect on July 1, 1975.
B. CITES lists Scleropages Formosus under its Appendix I status.
The aim of CITES is to "prevent excessive international trade in specific endangered species; it recognizes the positiveness of moderate consumption and seeks to promote balanced use."
CITES has three levels of classification when it comes to wild flora and fauna. Appendix I is for plants and animals that are in danger of becoming extinct. Appendix II is for plants and animals that are considered to be endangered. Appendix III plants and animals are abundant and are not endangered. Asian Arowanas are listed by CITES under its Appendix I status as a highest class protected fish due to its rapid decline in the wild. Under this scheme, the fish is to be able to enjoy all the privileges that comes with being a protected specie. Violators in the United States could for example, face up to 20,000 dollars in fine and up to five years imprisonment for violating this law.
Because of CITES, the Asian Arowana has now been given a new lease on life. Because of it’s special status as an Appendix I animal, the trade in Asian Arowanas became illegal.
C. CITES agrees to importation of farm bred specimens at a restricted level.
In 1989, at the Rosanne Seventh Review Congress, it was agreed to import farm bred fishes at a restricted level from Indonesia. Although Asian Arowanas were originally listed under Appendix I, it was later recognized that breeding the Arowana can be an economic alternative to domestic livestock production. At the same time, it will provide an incentive for rural populations in those places to develop an interest in its conservation. In line with this, CITES also believes that it should encourage the establishment of captive breeding operations for animals included in Appendix I. Therefore, Arowanas were once again allowed to be exported from its country of origin as long as the exported fishes are of specimens bred in captivity. The number of fishes exported from Indonesia are as follows: 1250 in 1990, 1500 in 1991, and 2500 in 1992. This allowance continues to increase and today there are over 16 CITES registered farms breeding Scleropages Formosus for commercial purposes.
III. The Arowana Today
A. A look into a fish farm
These days, the trading of Arowanas are once again legal, provided they are from CITES registered fish farms. These fish farms are scattered across Indonesia, Malaysia and Singapore where these fishes find their native habitat. To be able to apply as a CITES certified fish farm is a long and tedious process. Captive-Breeding operations have to be first approved by the Management Authority of each Party, in consultation with the Scientific Authority of that Party. Prior to the establishment of captive-breeding operations for exotic species, a study of ecological risks should be completed, in order to prevent any negative effects on the ecosystem and the native species. When all this is done the breeder has to acquire a breeding stock, and he has to build the facilities to house specimens and successfully breeding the species.
Specimens for the aquarium are no longer acquired in the wild. These fish farms specializes in the production of F2 offsprings, meaning second generation offsprings that can be sold to the market. These fishes are tagged with coded microchips called Passive Integrated Transponders (PIT) for identification purposes. These microchips help identify these fishes as a farm bred animal, and if the need ever arises to check its identification, the microchip can be scanned to identify the fish. Aside from the microchip, when one buys a farm bred fish from any of these fish farms, the buyer will receive a certificate of authenticity plus a birth certificate.
Some of the more well known fish farms are located in Singapore such as Panda Aquatics and Dragonfish Industry. They specialize in breeding high quality Arowanas.
B. Illegal activities
Although we have come a long way to make short term destruction into long term growth for both man and beast, there are still a lot of illegal activities going on behind the scenes. Although CITES has taken so much pain to ensure that its captive breeding program will be for the best, people have found ways around it to maximize profit at the expense of nature. There are some breeders who dig up a big earth pond and throws in whatever fishes they have in their breeding stock. The result is that a lot of hybrids are produced since these strains interbreed easily.
Hybrids are usually more prone to sickness and birth defects. These birth defects can cause disastrous consequences down the line as future generations of Arowanas will suffer due to bad genes and mutations. These irresponsible breeders don’t care about quality, they care for quantity. Breeders also just look for a few features and market these as either red gold or green Arowanas when in fact they are hybrids. What happens is that consumers are being cheated of their money.
The biggest problem now is that some breeders would catch fishes from the wild, and then tag them as CITES registered fishes. There is also the problem with hormone treatment. When breeders catch their fish from the pond, and realize that they are not that red, they would treat them with hormones so that they could sell it at a higher price. Recently, there have been complaints that the quality of fishes has gone down. The truth is, both sides are to blame. The dealers want cheaper fishes, and so they get what they paid for. However it is the consumer who suffers because he doesn’t know if the fish he’s buying is hormone treated or not.
Alex Chang of Panda Aquatics, one of the leading fish farms based on Singapore says that "we here are trying very hard to uphold the image of the industry in Singapore to have a sustainable market overseas but dealers are killing themselves day by day..."
C. The Arowana in the home of the hobbyist
The final destination of the Arowana is of course at the home of the hobbyist. Here the fishes spend the rest of their lives under the care of their new owners. Depending on the quality of care given, an Arowana may live up to a ripe old age of 25 years old.
The more adventurous aquarist will try to breed these fishes for himself and this is not discouraged. There are several benefits of breeding the Arowana by the aquarist.
Firstly, it adds to the knowledge of existing breeding methods. Secondly, it helps ensure the survival of the Arowana. Thirdly, when more people can breed these fishes by themselves, it would help counter the high prices in the market. 4) Arowanas would become more available.
If there are advantages though, there definitely are disadvantages too. There is always the worry that fishes bred by the hobbyist would be of poor quality and it would contribute to the decline in the gene pool.
Conclusion:
There is much debate going on whether the trade in exotic animals , and not just the Asian Arowana, has done more harm or good. It is not the intention of this paper to prove or show favor for any particular side. This paper does not aim to prove either point, but what this paper does intend to do is to bring out in the open something that is not generally known.
As with all research papers, there are limitations to my study. The first , and which I feel is the most significant, is that a lot has yet to be uncovered on the illegal trading going on. This is one area that if possible, should be given more research into because it is a very significant part of the whole trade. Also, few have yet to witness the actual steps taken in the exportation of these fishes-from catching, bagging, shipping, quarantine, until it finally reaches its destination in the different pet shops where it is sold. All these are areas still worth exploring and should be given proper research into.
A Research Paper Submitted to the Faculty of Ateneo de Manila University by Cheng Lee.
Source: http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=17373
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